Ask Tim the Tech....   He has your troubleshooting answers to your basic RVing questions.   Q: My RV doesn't have a heated basement with enclosed and heated holding tanks.  What do I need to do to use it in cold weather? Is this something that is feasible or should I be looking to trade on a better-equipped model? A: You can use your RV in cold weather. Even in temperatures consistently below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Some extra effort will be required to protect vulnerable systems from freezing. Q: I have a 1998 Class C motorhome on a Ford Chassis.  When I drive the steering seems to wander and jump around, especially on rural roads. Do I need the alignment adjusted? I just had it done less than a year ago.  I don't remember hitting any potholes or anything.  What could be causing my problem? A: Unfortunately this is a common problem for Ford chassis motorhomes. The problem is often referred to as "bump-steer." The good news is that there are solutions to the problem. Shocks, sway bars, and steering stabilizers have made dramatic improvements to the handling. We have several RVs equipped with a "safety and handling package" designed to nearly eliminate the problem. Come in for a test drive and see for yourself. Q: I have a 1999 Dutchmen. Is it true that I don't need to use RV antifreeze in my water system? Is it sufficient to drain my water system and blow out the lines with air? A camping friend told me that all the new RVs have freeze-proof plumbing so I don't need to winterize, just blow it out. He says he hasn't used RV antifreeze for several years. A: This is not true. While your friend may have been lucky enough to avoid problems so far, likely his luck is due to run out. Much of the RV's plumbing system is freeze resistant; however, it is far from freeze proof. The only way to avoid costly freeze-up damage is to use RV antifreeze every year. For more information, attend one of Setzer's World of Camping's free RV winterizing seminars held each fall. Q: My motorhome is very sluggish to drive, especially in the mountains. I can barely keep it above 35 mph on any kind of grade, and forget about keeping the cruise engaged! It is a 1996 model with a 454 c.i.d. Chevy big block V-8. I think it should have plenty of power. Is something wrong? A: Has the problem always existed or has it just become apparent? If it's a new problem, begin by checking for overloading. Check the weight of your motorhome and compare it to the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) listed on the data plate. Be sure to weigh the RV loaded the way you use it. If you determine that an overload situation exists, try to reduce the amount of stuff you carry. Next, check for any loose vacuum lines, the condition of the exhaust system, the cataylitic converter and the air filter. Any obstruction or inadvertent disconnect will rob performance. Q: I have an Onan Genset on my 1997 Bounder. It will start and run as long as I hold the start button, but as soon as I let go it shuts down. Any ideas? A: Without knowing what model or specs of the genset, there are a number of possibilities. 1) Excess oil or low fluid levels - check and be sure that all fluids are at the recommended level as per your manual. 2) Possible overheating - check for blocked air flow or other possible causes of overheating. 3) Ignition relay contacts not opening - check continuity and correct. 4) Output voltage from genset is not being supplied to control due to an open circuit between generator and control or no output voltage from the genset. Refer to service procedures in your Onan manual for test. 5) Defective control PC board. Refer to manual for test procedure. Best thing to do, because of the number of possibilities, is to see a trained Onan service technician for repairs. This will likely save you time and frustration. Q: I bought my RV used and found in the paperwork that it was originally purchased new in June of 2003. It is supposed to be a 2004 model. How can this be? A: Manufacturers have significant leeway regarding when they begin to offer new models. New year product introductions are common well ahead of the actual calendar year. To determine the actual year the manufacturer designated to your RV, refer to the tenth digit in the vehicles VIN (vehicle Identification Number). This number can be found on the RV builder's data plate on the left front exterior of towable RVs and the left side of the driver's area in motorized RVs. A 2004 model should have a 4 in the tenth position. A 2003 would have a 3. Motorized RVs have both a chassis VIN and an RV or coach VIN. Most states title by the RV's VIN, not the chassis. Q: How does the equalizing hitch work? Does tightening the bars one link help or hurt? A: An equalizing hitch (also known as a weight distributing hitch) works by distributing the hitch weight onto the other axles of the tow vehicle and the trailer. Think of the weight distribution bars as the handles on a wheelbarrow. Lifting up distributes more weight and raises the hitch. Lowering increases the weight and lowers the hitch. Changing links is how adjustments are made to the towing level of the rig. The ideal is to have the tow vehicle and the trailer sitting level when hitched.           Email your questions for Tim the Tech to sales@setzersrv.com